No. I am not talking about pick-up lines. By one liners, I am talking about quotes or phrases that one hears and does not, cannot, erver forget. As the end of our first full day ends, I already find myself with a handful of these memorable one liners. I will share a few with you below.
The first came from an elderly survivor who chose to speak at a commemoration ceremony we attended last night. He said that so many people were murdered during the genocide that he sometimes wonders whethers the victims think that we [the survivors] are the ones who have perished. I am still trying to come to terms with the weight of his words.
The second, which was a quote on the back of a child survivor's t-shirt was merely a variation of a metaphor I have often heard. It said: There is ALWAYS light at the end of the tunnel. The phrase is fitting because hope is the theme for the 15th commemoration of the genocide.
The third was not so much a saying, a quote or a line, but more so an idea or a symbol. Indeed, this afternoon, we visited an organization designed to provide support for the widows of the genocide. At the risk of sounding cliched, I will never forget the strength on the faces of the women that we met at the centre.
That's it for me for today. I have many more thoughts and ideas but I will give them more time to develop.
Best friom Kigali,
Raffi
Monday, June 29, 2009
It's not easy!!
I've been in Rwanda for two days now, and at the risk of sounding silly, I feel as
though I have been here for a very long time. I knew it was the right decision for
me to come here, but the Western world gives you so many reasons to remain in its
zone of comfort. I feel extremely lucky and proud to have found a way to make it
here with three other amazing Canadians. Though I must say the list of amazing people I have met in a mere two days in Rwanda is incredible.
Since I have been here, there are many things i have thought about (even with my half functioning brain due to jet lag and various other reasons). I will share a few of my thoughts.
Firstly, I have found that the Western portrayal of this country (along with many others i'm sure), and the precautions that one must take are totally exarcerbated. This country, though extremely different from our sheltered life in Canada, is very safe. The people are more friendly and open than I have ever experienced, and aren't really bothered by white people. Though i'm sure the latter may change once we are out of the capital.
Secondly, it seems that though this country is trying desperately to move on from the genocide
and what happened fifteen years ago, the people continue to be completely surrounded by it's reality. Today we met with an amazing man who was the Executive Secretary of the National Commission for the Fight against Genocide, who had previously been the Minister of Justice, and he himself had lost his wife and all of his children. He kept repeating "c'est pas facile, mais c'est une processus.' I just kept asking myself how I could possibly understand what this man, and so many others have to deal with on a daily basis.
Thirdly, there is such a sense of hope among the people I have met. After meeting with AVEGA, an organization that is founded to help widows of the genocide, I left feeling totally humbled, emotional, and inspired. Despite what many of members of AVEGA have been through, we learned that one of their biggest successes is helping widows accept what has happened to them, and to continue living their lives. This country is amazingly inspirational in what it has overcome. Though there are certainly many things that could be improved, the country lives together as Rwandans, and never as Tutsi and Hutu. I have tried to imagine if we would be able to say the same if something similar had occurred in Canada. I tend to think not!
Signing out,
Sara
though I have been here for a very long time. I knew it was the right decision for
me to come here, but the Western world gives you so many reasons to remain in its
zone of comfort. I feel extremely lucky and proud to have found a way to make it
here with three other amazing Canadians. Though I must say the list of amazing people I have met in a mere two days in Rwanda is incredible.
Since I have been here, there are many things i have thought about (even with my half functioning brain due to jet lag and various other reasons). I will share a few of my thoughts.
Firstly, I have found that the Western portrayal of this country (along with many others i'm sure), and the precautions that one must take are totally exarcerbated. This country, though extremely different from our sheltered life in Canada, is very safe. The people are more friendly and open than I have ever experienced, and aren't really bothered by white people. Though i'm sure the latter may change once we are out of the capital.
Secondly, it seems that though this country is trying desperately to move on from the genocide
and what happened fifteen years ago, the people continue to be completely surrounded by it's reality. Today we met with an amazing man who was the Executive Secretary of the National Commission for the Fight against Genocide, who had previously been the Minister of Justice, and he himself had lost his wife and all of his children. He kept repeating "c'est pas facile, mais c'est une processus.' I just kept asking myself how I could possibly understand what this man, and so many others have to deal with on a daily basis.
Thirdly, there is such a sense of hope among the people I have met. After meeting with AVEGA, an organization that is founded to help widows of the genocide, I left feeling totally humbled, emotional, and inspired. Despite what many of members of AVEGA have been through, we learned that one of their biggest successes is helping widows accept what has happened to them, and to continue living their lives. This country is amazingly inspirational in what it has overcome. Though there are certainly many things that could be improved, the country lives together as Rwandans, and never as Tutsi and Hutu. I have tried to imagine if we would be able to say the same if something similar had occurred in Canada. I tend to think not!
Signing out,
Sara
Sunday, June 28, 2009
What Globalization Really Means
Before explaining the title of this post, I am happy to report that Candace and Sara both arrived safely, on their Kenya Airways flight, this morning. In other words, the program has started! They are both back at our house sleeping so I will leave it to them to fill you in about their arrival in Kigali. Tomorrow morning, our programming officially starts and with it more consistent updates to the blog.
Now, a few sentences about the title. In second year university, we studied the definition of globalization. At the end of the course, we determined that it was a "space and time compression." It means that information can travel around the world at unprecedented speeds. Two days ago, I experienced globalization. I was sitting at an internet cafe in Kigali, in the centre of Africa, when the person to my rights announced that Michael Jackson had, to everyone's shock, passed away in California. I think that's proof we live in a globalized world.
Best,
Raffi
p.s. Umuzungu, not umuzungo
Now, a few sentences about the title. In second year university, we studied the definition of globalization. At the end of the course, we determined that it was a "space and time compression." It means that information can travel around the world at unprecedented speeds. Two days ago, I experienced globalization. I was sitting at an internet cafe in Kigali, in the centre of Africa, when the person to my rights announced that Michael Jackson had, to everyone's shock, passed away in California. I think that's proof we live in a globalized world.
Best,
Raffi
p.s. Umuzungu, not umuzungo
Thursday, June 25, 2009
Setting the record straight
The bad news is, if I can call it that, I made a mistake. The good news is I know someone has been reading the blog. I have received word that I am in fact not a Muzungo; instead, I am an Umuzungo. Either the children are going to have to work on their pronunciation, or I will have to work on my hearing.
Now that I have set the record straight, I am going to spend a couple of paragraphs on the notion of perceptions.
In Canada, in conversation, if we've run out of things to say, we resort to talking about the weather. It sure is cold these days, eh? Here, I have come to notice they talk about something else. They talk about development and progress. If a Rwandan has been studying abroad, upon his/her return, the default topic of conversation is development - what has changed in the country since the student was last in the country.
And, indeed, things are changing. Yesterday, I went on a tour of Kigali's wealthiest neighbourhood. To my surprise it was covered with mansions that could rival any found in North America. As one visitor put it, we could have easily been in Miami.
It was a humbling experience because I realized that I hadn't expected to find such affluence in Sub-Saharan Africa - it didn't fit, rightly or wrongly, with my perception of Rwanda - but, as one of my Rwandan friends put it, one's perception of the other is often based on archetypes instead of actual fact. Indeed, it is as hard for one of my African hosts to picture a "poor" Canadian, as it is for me to picture an affluent Rwandan. While both manifestly exist, sometimes it requires seeing it in person to truly grasp what it means.
On a second level of perceptions, I have detected a fear of perception - if perfectly understandable - by Rwandans of themselves by others. Specifically, Rwandans are very aware that their country is thought of synonomously with its 1994 genocide. Many people I have met have tried to explain to me that they are not "barbarians."
On the contrary, it hasn't taken me long to realize that Rwandans are in fact extremely warm and hostpitable. And, if surprising, Rwanda is currently the safest contry on the Continent, and Rwandans are quick to remind you of that fact. I think Rwandans talk so much about development and change because they are trying so desperately to change the way the country is perceived by the rest of the world.
I am running out of time, so I will have to finish the substance of this post at a later date. In short, however, I do not have any conclusions, I am simply offering my humble observations. The only thing close to a conclusion I can come up with is that to begin changing one's perceptions, a first step involves seeing and experiencing things for oneself in order to put a human face on the subject of our perceptions.
My best from Rwanda,
Raffi
Now that I have set the record straight, I am going to spend a couple of paragraphs on the notion of perceptions.
In Canada, in conversation, if we've run out of things to say, we resort to talking about the weather. It sure is cold these days, eh? Here, I have come to notice they talk about something else. They talk about development and progress. If a Rwandan has been studying abroad, upon his/her return, the default topic of conversation is development - what has changed in the country since the student was last in the country.
And, indeed, things are changing. Yesterday, I went on a tour of Kigali's wealthiest neighbourhood. To my surprise it was covered with mansions that could rival any found in North America. As one visitor put it, we could have easily been in Miami.
It was a humbling experience because I realized that I hadn't expected to find such affluence in Sub-Saharan Africa - it didn't fit, rightly or wrongly, with my perception of Rwanda - but, as one of my Rwandan friends put it, one's perception of the other is often based on archetypes instead of actual fact. Indeed, it is as hard for one of my African hosts to picture a "poor" Canadian, as it is for me to picture an affluent Rwandan. While both manifestly exist, sometimes it requires seeing it in person to truly grasp what it means.
On a second level of perceptions, I have detected a fear of perception - if perfectly understandable - by Rwandans of themselves by others. Specifically, Rwandans are very aware that their country is thought of synonomously with its 1994 genocide. Many people I have met have tried to explain to me that they are not "barbarians."
On the contrary, it hasn't taken me long to realize that Rwandans are in fact extremely warm and hostpitable. And, if surprising, Rwanda is currently the safest contry on the Continent, and Rwandans are quick to remind you of that fact. I think Rwandans talk so much about development and change because they are trying so desperately to change the way the country is perceived by the rest of the world.
I am running out of time, so I will have to finish the substance of this post at a later date. In short, however, I do not have any conclusions, I am simply offering my humble observations. The only thing close to a conclusion I can come up with is that to begin changing one's perceptions, a first step involves seeing and experiencing things for oneself in order to put a human face on the subject of our perceptions.
My best from Rwanda,
Raffi
Tuesday, June 23, 2009
108 HOURS
In 108 hours, Candace and Sara arrive and our program officially begins. The last couple of days have been spent travelling all across Kigali making the final logisitical arrangements for the program. Yesterday, for example, we tracked down suitable accomodation and tranpsort.
Also in the last couple of days, I have started to come to terms not only with how important it is for our project to succeed, but also how ambitious a project ours really is.
The good news is that everyone we have met here in Rwanda has been extremely supportive so far. They have put faith in strangers, freeing up their schedules to meet us, offering any support they possibly can. Yesterday I found out that if we want to meet the President, all it takes is an official request. While I don't think we will meet the President, my general feeling is that people here want us to succeed. In the wisdom of one of my Rwandan hosts, nothing can stop the power of a positive idea.
I am off to luch.
Raffi
Also in the last couple of days, I have started to come to terms not only with how important it is for our project to succeed, but also how ambitious a project ours really is.
The good news is that everyone we have met here in Rwanda has been extremely supportive so far. They have put faith in strangers, freeing up their schedules to meet us, offering any support they possibly can. Yesterday I found out that if we want to meet the President, all it takes is an official request. While I don't think we will meet the President, my general feeling is that people here want us to succeed. In the wisdom of one of my Rwandan hosts, nothing can stop the power of a positive idea.
I am off to luch.
Raffi
Sunday, June 21, 2009
The Adventures of a Muzungo in Kigali
It is hard to believe that is has been 5 days since I last wrote. On the one hand, it feels like much longer because I have done so much and met so many interesting people, but, on the other hand, it feels much shorter because I can't believe I managed to put off writing an entry for 5 days!
First, let me explain the title of the post. A Muzungo is the term used by Rwandans to refer to white visitors. Walking down the street, or walking through a primary school playground at recess, kids call out, hey everybody, come look, a Muzumgo is coming. In case you haven't figured it out, I am the said Muzungo.
In hindsight, I should have probably read the muzungo handbook before arriving in Kigali - it might have saved me a few bruises. I learned my first lesson on one of my first evenings, as I was walking on the sidewalk towards downtown. That afternoon, I had noticed that, for better or worse, parts of the sidewalk were missing. Separating one part of the sidewalk from the other was a one metre gap and a four foot drop, leading to - for a lack of a better word - the drainage system.
So, that evening, I made the mistake of forgetting my flashlight at Daniel's house. No big deal, I thought. Well, half way downtown, in the middle of an interesting conversation with my friend about how well I had been adapting thus far, I didn't "mind the gap" (and if you've ever been to London you'll get that reference) and I fell through the sidewalk. Luckily, I wasn't seriously hurt. I walked away with a few bruises and scratches, but my ego hurt for a few hours.
On a more serious note, after only five days in Kigali, I have to come to realize very quicly that this is a country with many layers. On the one hand, you can walk down the street in Kigali and have an ice coffee in a trendy cafe and then take a motor taxi to Hotel Mille Collines for a concert and a drink, but, on the other hand, hidden just below the surface - far enough that you can avoid it if you want, but close enough that it can be easily found - is a country that remains deeply hurt, trying desperately to recover. Twice, in as many days, we left the main streets and found ourselves in Kigali's less travelled areas. Each time, without prompting, a genocide survivor sought us out and began telling his/her story. Truth be told, the stories were both told in Kinyarwanda (the local language) and my friend Daniel, who is from the region, translated them for me.
In short, thanks to some films and recent publications, many Canadians know bits and pieces about what happened in Rwanda, I would consider myself to be one of these people. However, Daniel has helped me realize that lots has been lost in translation. I have a feeling these were not isolated incidents and that more people will seek us out and tell us there stories.
Yours,
Raffi
First, let me explain the title of the post. A Muzungo is the term used by Rwandans to refer to white visitors. Walking down the street, or walking through a primary school playground at recess, kids call out, hey everybody, come look, a Muzumgo is coming. In case you haven't figured it out, I am the said Muzungo.
In hindsight, I should have probably read the muzungo handbook before arriving in Kigali - it might have saved me a few bruises. I learned my first lesson on one of my first evenings, as I was walking on the sidewalk towards downtown. That afternoon, I had noticed that, for better or worse, parts of the sidewalk were missing. Separating one part of the sidewalk from the other was a one metre gap and a four foot drop, leading to - for a lack of a better word - the drainage system.
So, that evening, I made the mistake of forgetting my flashlight at Daniel's house. No big deal, I thought. Well, half way downtown, in the middle of an interesting conversation with my friend about how well I had been adapting thus far, I didn't "mind the gap" (and if you've ever been to London you'll get that reference) and I fell through the sidewalk. Luckily, I wasn't seriously hurt. I walked away with a few bruises and scratches, but my ego hurt for a few hours.
On a more serious note, after only five days in Kigali, I have to come to realize very quicly that this is a country with many layers. On the one hand, you can walk down the street in Kigali and have an ice coffee in a trendy cafe and then take a motor taxi to Hotel Mille Collines for a concert and a drink, but, on the other hand, hidden just below the surface - far enough that you can avoid it if you want, but close enough that it can be easily found - is a country that remains deeply hurt, trying desperately to recover. Twice, in as many days, we left the main streets and found ourselves in Kigali's less travelled areas. Each time, without prompting, a genocide survivor sought us out and began telling his/her story. Truth be told, the stories were both told in Kinyarwanda (the local language) and my friend Daniel, who is from the region, translated them for me.
In short, thanks to some films and recent publications, many Canadians know bits and pieces about what happened in Rwanda, I would consider myself to be one of these people. However, Daniel has helped me realize that lots has been lost in translation. I have a feeling these were not isolated incidents and that more people will seek us out and tell us there stories.
Yours,
Raffi
Tuesday, June 16, 2009
Bite de Rwanda
The long anticipated day has finally arrived. This afternoon Rwandan time, which is 6 hours ahead of EST, after a two hour delay at Heathrow, which was caused, according to the Ethiopian Airlines crew, by an extremely intoxicated passenger, I arrived in Kigali.
My first experience on Continental Africa was an interesting one. I approached the customs desk ready to explain my complicated story about why I was visiting Rwanda and how I would be staying with my friend's family. I was also a little anxious because I had decided , against my better judgment, to smuggle some plastic bags (now illegal in Rwanda) into the country.
Instead of the tough questions I am used to, the border official smiled, looked at my passport, and asked me if had ever been to Rwanda. I answered no. He told me that he had been to Canada. I asked him which part. He mumbled something I didn't understand and then clarified that he had only ever really been there in his mind.
My other impressions of the country so far, if only initial, are that Rwanda is a country on the move. It markets itself as the Switzerland of Africa. The country is attempting to root out corruption and create an efficient, 21st century economy. Indeed, in recent years, English has been increasingly taught in schools as the country attempts to compete with regional African players as well as on the world stage with other emerging economies.
In short, my first day has been an eventful one. I have been through three power outages and a cold shower, but I don't appear any worse for the wear. Tomorrow is Wednesday in Kigali.
Best, Raffi
My first experience on Continental Africa was an interesting one. I approached the customs desk ready to explain my complicated story about why I was visiting Rwanda and how I would be staying with my friend's family. I was also a little anxious because I had decided , against my better judgment, to smuggle some plastic bags (now illegal in Rwanda) into the country.
Instead of the tough questions I am used to, the border official smiled, looked at my passport, and asked me if had ever been to Rwanda. I answered no. He told me that he had been to Canada. I asked him which part. He mumbled something I didn't understand and then clarified that he had only ever really been there in his mind.
My other impressions of the country so far, if only initial, are that Rwanda is a country on the move. It markets itself as the Switzerland of Africa. The country is attempting to root out corruption and create an efficient, 21st century economy. Indeed, in recent years, English has been increasingly taught in schools as the country attempts to compete with regional African players as well as on the world stage with other emerging economies.
In short, my first day has been an eventful one. I have been through three power outages and a cold shower, but I don't appear any worse for the wear. Tomorrow is Wednesday in Kigali.
Best, Raffi
Wednesday, June 10, 2009
Rwanda Bound
I figured I would give Candace a day off and post my first entry. My name is Raphael (Raffi) and I am one of the other participant organizers of the program. Alongside Daniel, a third member of the team, I have been travelling around Europe since the middle of May. However, our time in Europe is coming to a close as we begin our ascent to London, where we have a flight to Kigali on the 15th.
Truth be told, I do not quite know how to prepare or what to expect. At the risk of sounding cliched, I expect the unexpected. Mostly, however, I am very much looking forward to landing in Kigali so that the long anticipated journey can begin. Indeed, once there, Daniel and I have two weeks to prepare before the others arrive and the program starts.
That's all for now. I will post an update once I land in Kigali. Sending you my best from France; Raffi
Truth be told, I do not quite know how to prepare or what to expect. At the risk of sounding cliched, I expect the unexpected. Mostly, however, I am very much looking forward to landing in Kigali so that the long anticipated journey can begin. Indeed, once there, Daniel and I have two weeks to prepare before the others arrive and the program starts.
That's all for now. I will post an update once I land in Kigali. Sending you my best from France; Raffi
Wednesday, June 3, 2009
Agahozo Shalom Youth Village
Our group just got confirmation of a time to visit the Agahozo Shalom Youth Village, and I couldn't be more excited! With the experience less than a month away, it's starting to become more real-- and I recognize how unprepared I am.
I wanted to make a brief post to mention this village, as it is an amazing connection between two peoples who have suffered immense tragedy. The village will be discussed in greater detail after our visit, but I encourage you to check out the link. It is one of those rare initiatives that restores faith in human compassion and exemplifies our global interdependence. Kudos to the American Jewish Joint Distribution Committee for making this project a priority. It is inspirational.
A short article by Noam Schimmel discusses the connection between the Holocaust and the Rwandan genocide--and one person's experience when faced with survivors of the latter. It is short and concise, but displays all the horror, pain, inspiration and gratitude that come with such an experience.
T-25 days!
~Candace
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